Build the twin frames. The bottom bunk frame is made with 2x6x8 and the top bunk frame is made with 2x4x8. The 2x2s are for the sides of the frame where the Slats will sit on. The slats I purchased are from Ikea.
Spruce lumber 2x6x8 (4) 2x4x8 (5) 2x2x8 (4) for two twin frames
Two twin slats https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/luroey-slatted-bed-base-60160217/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=free_listings&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_content=free_bing_shopping_clicks_BedsMattresses&msclkid=7e9db486b8bc11ed83378875538f8f4f
Building two frames dimensions:
Twin frame size is 40.5 inches x 76.5 inches. Make the rectangular frame for both top and bottom bunk. The bottom bunk will be framed with the 2x6x8 and the top bunk will be framed with 2x4x8. Attach the frame with two screws at each joint.
To make supports for the slats to sit on, use the 2x2x8 cut to 76 inches and attach to the frame with screws on both sides. The slats will be support for the mattress
Now that the two twin frames are done. You can decide the height of the bunks. I secured mine at 9 inches off the ground. Use a stud finder to mark all the studs on the walls and Attach the bunk frame directly to the studs on the wall with 3.5 inch screws. Once your bottom twin bunk is attached to the studs of the wall, cut scrap wood from 2x4 or 2x6 and attach them using screws to act as legs for the bottom bunk. These will be extra support but will also be useful when its time to cover the frame with hardboard.
This is what the framing looks like once secured to the studs of the wall. Once secured, add leg supports and post supports cut at appropriate height. The vertical supports near the wall will support the top bunk made out of 2x4. These will also act as shelves later in the build process.
NEXT UP: 2X2 cut to size for the built in ladder. I made pocket holes using a Kreg Jig r3 and Ryobi drill. I used my Ryobi planer to run the 2x2x8 through and ensure smoothness. I sanded the ladder steps also. Secure with screws and ensure pocket hole is at the bottom so its not visible to the top.
2. NEXT UP COVER THE BASE OF THE TOP BUNK WTH HARD BOARD.
I used my Ryobi 18 G brad nailer with 1.5 in brad nails to secure the hardboard to the middle support of the top bunk and 2x2s on the top bunk that will also support the slats. Hardboard linked below. The hardboard will ensure a more built in look and cover the slats
3. Next up: Adding 2x4 to the top bunk to ensure mattress gets covered and rail will be supported here. Made pocket holes again and secured it to the top using Ryobi drill
4. Now that the bunk bed frame is done, it is time to cover the bunkbed with hardboard. This time I will use my Ryobi circular saw to make the cuts. I used white hardboard to dress up the frame.
Measure, cut, repeat.
Circular Saw, Clamps and scrap wood to act as a guide.
Secure with brad nails using 18 G RYOBI brad nailer with 2 inch nails. The hardboard is being attached to 2x4s that were added once I decided I wanted the bottom to be covered too.
This will be primed and painted. Before priming and painting. nail holes and seams were filled with wood filler and sanded with a 220 grit to ensure a flawless and smooth paint finish.
Now that its all covered. I added a corner trim to cover where the corner and make it more sleek looking. Secured with brad nails. Wood filled sanded and painted a second coat of the paint.
5. Next up make the RAIL for the top bunk:
Supplies 1x2x8 select pine (3) Cut 10 pieces at 11inches and make pocket holes on one end. Ryobi drill AND Kreg JigR3. Secure to the top bunk using screws via the pocket holes. Lastly add the top piece and attach it via brad nails with RYOBI 18 G brad nailer
Once completed: Stain and seal.
6. Book shelf: Scrap 2x4 cut to size and 3/4 inch plywood to cover the 2x4 and make a lip to hold the books:
Secured 2x4s from the bottom via pocket holes and attached plywood as lip with a brad nailer.